Once all bolts are started, tighten them beginning with No. This is what the passenger-side rear No. Torque each bolt to 45 ft-lbs. This body mount bolt can be reached through the removable panel inside the rear fenderwell. The mount should be torqued to 45 ft-lbs, which is enough to secure the body to the frame. This spec helps reduce body fl ex and minimize frame-to-body squeaks. All 8 coupe bolts 10 for convertibles should be secured the same way. A good time to check your notes is when you are filling fluids and hooking up vital components.
Before proceeding check and double-check each item on your startup list, such as fluids and correct hose hookups. Make sure these are all filled to factory specifications before you attempt to start your engine. This is also a good time to revisit your checklist to verify that all hose attachments and electrical fittings are connected correctly.
Start adding necessary fluids, such as coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and transmission fluid. This is also a good time to check the engine oil level to make sure none drained out during storage. The most common method to bleed your brakes is gravity manual bleeding. It is simple and effective but it requires two people. The other method is pressure or pedal bleeding. This requires using diaphragm-type, mechanical pressure bleeding equipment that is usually found in repair shops.
This exhaust features a catalytic converter for emissions control. The long tube is attached to the air pump in the engine compartment that blows air into the converter to make it more efficient. The exhaust is connected to the two front headers on the engine. The rear pipe is connected to a pipe that is routed to both mufflers.
Start the brake bleeding process by removing the brake master cylinder cover. Raise the car into the air and remove the wheels. Keep the fluid topped off during the procedure.
All — Corvette are fitted with four-piston brake calipers that have bleeder valves on each side of the rear and one on the front caliper. Always be sure to use the correct brake fluid and never let the master cylinder run out of fluid or you will have to start the process all over again.
When the system is finished bleeding, the pedal should be firm and not drop when you push it down. All — Corvettes came from the factory with true dual exhausts. Each side of the engine had its own dedicated exhaust system that feeds into two large mufflers underneath the bumpers. Only Corvettes were available with the optional factory side-mounted exhaust system N14 that exited under each door.
Each of these pipes had a built-in muffler to help reduce the exhaust noise. You will know if sidepipes are installed on any other year except a ; they are not factory original. However, these pipes are very popular with C3 owners and a lot of cars have them installed. Corvettes built from to have two pipes that feed into one catalytic converter under the passenger compartment and then split back into two pipes that lead to the mufflers.
These cars are equipped with an air pump that feeds air into the converter to help emissions. If you live in a state with emissions inspections, this system is necessary to pass the annual test.
It is very important to carefully inspect every vacuum line that exits the engine. These lines should be soft and flexible when squeezed. If they are hard and brittle, they are old and prone to fail, so you need to replace them. The basic system is fairly simple to troubleshoot.
It uses vacuum from the engine to open and close the headlight doors. If your car is a to this system also operates the hideaway windshield wiper door. Both doors actually have two subsystems: control and operating. After your car is reassembled and these systems do not work, troubleshoot each one separately. The control system opens and closes the headlight and windshield wiper door.
The wiper door system which was eliminated starting in contains the wiper door safety switch that is between the override and the wiper actuator relay. This relay prevents the door from closing until the wiper blades are in their parked position.
The wiper door system is very similar to headlight door operation. The main difference is that the headlight door system has two actuator relays and actuators compared to one for the wiper door. The other difference is that the headlight system does not need a safety switch to protect another system in case of failure. Operation of the wiper system begins at the vacuum source, which is located on the intake manifold.
The line goes through a filter and a check valve, then out of the lower fitting on the valve to the windshield wiper switch that is in the off position. When the wiper door is opened, vacuum is not allowed to reach the wiper actuator relay valve without vacuum present. A spring in the actuator valve pushes a diaphragm to open the wiper door. In effect all it is doing is routing the vacuum from the intake manifold to the actuators vacuum motors to open and close the doors.
If you have a vacuum leak that does not allow you to open your headlights or operate the wiper door your engine is probably running rough. You will have to find the leak and repair it.
This system consists of vacuum hoses, vacuum hose filter, one-way check valve, headlight switch, manual override switch under the steering wheel, vacuum accumulator storage tank , relays, and two actuators vacuum motors. You need a vacuum gauge to troubleshoot the system. Connect a vacuum gauge directly to the manifold outlet.
The engine should produce 18 to 20 inches of mercury according to the gauge. If you discover a 2- to 3-inch drop anywhere in the system, you have a leaking hose. If your car has a high-performance cam with excessive valve overlap, your vacuum reading is much lower; as a result the headlights slowly open if they are working correctly. If your lights or wiper door is not opening, isolate the system to find the leak.
If you have both wiper and headlight systems unhook the wiper door circuit and plug it with a golf tee or something similar.
If it is too hard to reach, lower the panel under your steering column and plug the wiper override hose by disconnecting it from the switch. Be sure to check the amount of vacuum coming into and out of this switch before proceeding.
Make sure there is only one path back to the source of the vacuum intake manifold when testing an individual line. If a reading is within 2 to 3 inches, that particular vacuum line is fine. If there is a significant drop, troubleshoot that line to find the leak. If all the vacuum lines are close to specifications and the doors are staying open, it indicates that a diaphragm has a hole in it and is leaking. The actuators have a springloaded diaphragm inside and operate with vacuum.
If the actuator is not getting vacuum, that relay stays in the up position at all times. A C3 Corvette with one light up and the other one down has a leaking diaphragm. The reservoir is easy to test.
Remove both of the lines that go to the actuators. Plug one of the outlets where you just removed the lines and put your vacuum gauge on the other side and check the reading. If it is below the normal operational range, the reservoir is leaking. On all — Corvettes the vacuum reservoir is in the round cross member underneath the headlights. The included many of the power-operated features that were first installed onto the Mako Shark GM show car. This was the first car equipped with vacuumoperated headlights and wiper doors.
Be prepared to replace these hoses because they cause rough idle and poorly operating equipment. Drawing Courtesy Zip Products. Here is the early system. This is the late system, which used a different kind of actuator for the windshield wiper door. The vacuum system stayed unchanged from to A new hood design eliminated the need for a windshield wiper door in , much to the relief of Corvette mechanics and owners.
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Posted: 11 months ago. City: Roanoke, VA. City: Lawton, OK. Front bumpers at Top Flight Automotive can enhance levels of performance and handling with additional accessories. We make it easy to find one-piece front clip replacements for Corvettes. Front clip replacements are the only way to fix cosmetic imperfections near front tires, hoods and headlights without purchasing all the parts individually.
American Custom Industries front clips arrive unpainted. You can finish the fiberglass front-end pieces in any color you like for a stock or aftermarket presentation. All front clip selections will ship to your home or business address via truck freight.
Reimagine your C3 Corvette with one-piece attachments that leave room for third-generation style hoods. Top Flight Automotive carries individual front-end sections made specifically for third-generation vehicles. Choose attachments brought to you by Corvette America to see your project through.
These parts are perfect for muscle cars that have imperfections on certain surfaces but are in great shape otherwise. Corvette America C3 front-end sections are made of fiberglass, and all items follow original contours. Coming off wasn't quite as bad as going back on. With the tru-flex being alot stiffer than the plastic one. You have to evenly work it across the honeycomb core top, bottom, left, and right. I have read somewhere that you can accually remount the bumper without the honeycomb.
If I'm wrong please someone tell me? You just have to remember if you hit something be ready to go get another bumper. Another thing those nice dimpled areas on your new bumper, well they don't quite line up to the factory hole as you might think. So if you can place the bumper all the way on and somehow reach up inside and mark the holes on the new bumper you will be alot better off.
Bolts to put it back on? I used the retainers not stock brackets. They were Ok but you have to attach them to the bumper or at least I had too. I drilled the holes for the retainer studs then drill a hole through the bumper lip that alined with the retainer holes on each side of the stud. Then tried rivets in those holes but that was a NO GO.
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