I have recently fitted a new Drayton mid position head and the problem still exists. Are there any checks I can do with the head to see if this is working correctly? If I remove the head and turn the heating on then adjust the thermostat on and off, should I see the actuator in the head move? Subby Plumber. Gas Engineer. Messages Status Not open for further replies.
Similar threads F. Replies 2 Views Sunday at AM fromage. Mid position actuator newly installed issue. I'm wondering whether the OP has looked at the old valve which was presumably replaced, or has looked at the box, or whether the OP will confirm Replies 25 Views 2K.
Jan 16, Ric Getting hot water but no heat to radiators. Very good. At last, good to hear that the Auto Adapt is working well. I think that pump also displays the power output in watts W , if so, when Replies 12 Views Oct 28, John. Hot water stays on, even when programmer says it's off. Possibly the HW 2 port is passing, you will feel the pipe warm up after the valve if CH is on. Possibly someone on here has a better idea Replies 21 Views 1K.
Oct 5, Chester. Heatmiser Actuators, wont clip on the adaptor. Replies 5 Views Jul 13, ShaunCorbs. Looks like I was given bad advice and it wasn't the actuator at all Even with the old one though, if I removed it while the noise was going on it stopped immediately so don't really see how it can be anything else. Any suggestions??
Depends on the type of noise being produced. It could be a number of things as always prevention is better then cure have you tried turning the pump speed down? I cannot guarantee it won't effect the heating of the house but it may reduce your noise. Perhaps a description of the noise may help but you could be sent on a wild goose chase as it's such a wide scope to pin point without hearing it first hand.
Can't believe I have manged to end up with 2 with the same problem! Thanks again. That certainly sounds like system noise rather then actuator head noise. Have you replaced the valve body to? If you are able to add a picture to the drop box of the valve and associated pipe work to boot as clear as practically possible then that may help. Status Not open for further replies. Similar threads H. Mid position actuator newly installed issue.
I'm wondering whether the OP has looked at the old valve which was presumably replaced, or has looked at the box, or whether the OP will confirm Replies 25 Views 2K. Jan 16, Ric Three Port Valve bang when heating switches off. Replies 3 Views Dec 7, Undertrained.
Actuator Valve or something else? First and foremost Shaun the head needs to be proved the fault, I suspect it is but need to be sure. The OP said he's not a fan of Drayton as Replies 12 Views Sep 17, SJB Honeywell three port motorised valve - replace the whole thing? And other questions Your old Danesmoor is probably worth considering upgrading at the same time if you're planning on a major overhaul.
Replies 11 Views 1K. Aug 24, SJB Divert or valve potential issue. Perfect thank you. I do have a multimeter so will check each live whilst switching the control panel. Staying in another house and there is an ancient and dodgy central heating system.
I assume that the logic is roughly; If heating or water is called for the main valve opens and the 3 position valve moves to Heat or Water. If both are called for then the Mid position is selected which allows water to circulate to both. Digging so far indicates that if the controller calls for heating with thermostat set above ambient temperature nothing happens.
If water is called for the main valve sometimes opens and the pump runs. There are manual overrides for both functions - valve and 3 way selector. I can just about get the cheap plastic piece of shit manual override on the main valve to stay open.
The 3 way manual override plastic lever seems to be sticking out of the back of the valve housing - I can see the other end when I waggle it - so I can't move that valve around to see what happens. At the moment I am assuming that the valve is in the mid way position otherwise we wouldn't be getting hot water from the tank and some heat from the radiators and the strange behaviour of the heating is because it only works when the programmer for the hot water is on.
Venting here to see if my conclusions seem reasonable. One side of the house, the radiators do get hot, Some of the other radiators don't, or at least take a long time I've only recently put the hot water on constant. Pump is on flat out setting. This suggests that the radiators may not be balanced.
Now some heat is getting to the cold radiators. The new compared to the others double radiator is doing something I haven't encountered before.
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